Martin Margiela for Hermès: The Massai bag
- Vintageinformation
- Aug 16
- 3 min read
Understated elegance with Avant-Garde pedigree
In the pantheon of luxury handbags, few models encapsulate the blend of timeless refinement and contemporary relevance quite like the Hermès Massai (sometimes spelled Masai, or Massaï).
Originally released in the late 1990s, the Massai stands as a tribute not just to the exceptional heritage of Hermès, but also to a critical turning point in fashion history; when Martin Margiela, the famously enigmatic Belgian designer, took the reins of the house’s womenswear division.
Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy favoured the Massai PM for its everyday utility and sleekness, while Jennifer Aniston chose the more spacious Massai GM for travel.
A creation born from Margiela’s quiet revolution
The Massai emerged during Martin Margiela’s influential tenure at Hermès (1997–2003), a period that redefined modern luxury. Known for his deconstructivist sensibility and conceptual approach at Maison Margiela, his time at Hermès took on a different tenor: one of restraint, minimalism, and timeless purity.
It was under this philosophy that the Massai was born. A slouchy, subtly hobo-shaped shoulder bag said to be inspired by the elegance and simplicity of the Maasai people’s traditional accessories. Margiela’s version distilled the codes of Hermès; superlative craftsmanship, quiet opulence, and equestrian elegance into a silhouette that is both sleek and softly utilitarian. The Massai bag has been discontinued since the early 2000s and rarely shows up on the pre-loved and vintage second hand market.
The Massai bag is for the fashion connoisseur and everyday life
The Massai isn’t just a collector's item for the fashion elite; it’s a highly functional, versatile piece designed for day-to-day use. It nestles comfortably under your arm, thanks to its flat, wide strap and flexible construction. Offered in luxurious Clémence, Swift (called Gulliver at the time) or durable Togo leather, its tactile richness is balanced by an unstructured, approachable form that molds to your body. It came in a range of colours, from the classic Ebene to a punchy Orange poppy, but no matter the hue the Massai transitions from office to café to the weekend market run with complete effortlessness.
This adaptability has made the Massai a quiet favorite among those who recognize luxury not by logos, but by form, function, and finish.
The Massai came in 3 sizes: The Cut (small), the PM (medium), and the GM (large).
All models came with 2 straps; one shorter for on-the-shoulder wear, and one longer for cross-body wear. Today it is rare to find these bags on the vintage second hand market with both straps intact so if you find one, grab it!
A design legacy that continues to shape contemporary fashion
Margiela’s muted luxury for Hermès not only created some of the most covetable archival fashion pieces of today, it set a new standard for modern minimalist fashion. His influence echoes loudly in today’s most talked-about labels:
The Massai, in many ways, is a touchstone for this legacy. It serves as a reminder that true innovation often comes not through disruption, but through refinement and intention.
A fashion collector’s delight, a companion for life
While vintage and archival Hermès pieces have surged in popularity, the Massai retains a discreet profile. It's truly an insider's favorite. Its rarity, combined with its wearable elegance, makes it a sought-after gem for collectors who value the Margiela era as a golden age of fashion intelligence.
For those of us lucky enough to carry one, it’s not just a bag. It’s a chapter of fashion history slung over the shoulder. A piece that quietly communicates connoisseurship, confidence, and style without excess.
In conclusion
The Hermès Massai is more than a bag. It is the embodiment of a fashion philosophy that prizes discretion over spectacle, function over flash, and timelessness over trend. It stands at the intersection of heritage and modernity, where craftsmanship meets conceptual rigor. For the true fashion aficionado, it’s an icon worth cherishing (and carrying!).